Five Top Tips for Tackling Damp Problems!
Old houses often have damp problems due to the lack of a damp proof course
1. Look around your house – is there a defect, crack or blockage through which water could be getting in?
This could be a sign of a penetrating damp problem. Penetrating damp problems are caused by defects within the building or plumbing system where water has been able to come into the property. A water mark on an internal wall would be a sign of penetrating damp, and can give a good clue as to where the leak is getting through, so check externally in the same area as the watermark for any obvious problems.
DIY solutions -
- check the pipes, drainage and gutters for any blockages including moss, leaves, dead birds etc. Remove the blockage and you might find that the damp problem goes away easily!
- If the guttering is old, it might need to be replaced
- Ensure that any cracks in the walls or window frames are fixed
- Have a good look at the roof. Are there any loose slates? Problems with the roof are a common cause of penetrating damp problems
2. Are there any signs of damp mould on the walls? Are the walls wet to the touch?
A loose slate can cause penetrating damp problems
This could be a sign of condensation damp problems. Condensation damp means that there is excessive moisture in the house. This moisture forms condensation when it meets the cold walls. When this excessive moisture cannot escape, mould often forms and a dank, musty smell is also often present.
DIY Solutions -
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Check that all the windows in the property are opened regularly to allow a ‘change of air’
- Use extractor fans in the kitchen and bathrooms – rooms where there is a lot of steam
- When using the kitchen or bathroom keep the doors shut and extractor fan on so that excessive moisture does not go into other parts of the house
- A climate control humidifier might help
- Ensure washing machines and dryers are adequately plumbed in according to the manufacturers instructions. Incorrect installation can lead to steam escaping
3. Look at the interior walls. Is there a water mark on the walls on the ground floor, with a damp patch that rises no more than one metre up the wall?
DIY Solutions-
Newton 803 Newtonite is ideal for treating damp walls permanently
Try digging away the soil that butts against the exterior walls. You might find that this is enough to remove the problem completely. If your building is old, and you think it might not have a damp proof course, then our recommended solution would be to install Newton Damp Proof Membranes, as they can be 100% effective without the need to install a damp proof course. The installation of damp proofing membranes negates the need for a damp proof course, and is a simpler method of damp proofing.
4. Is the property affected by damp in an exposed area, or is it older than a hundred years old?
Houses by the sea often suffer from penetrating damp problems due to the driving rain hitting the external walls. If the property older than a hundred years old, it might not have a damp proof course, or the damp proof course could be damaged. The recommended solution would be to install Newton Damp Proof Membranes – which negates the need to install a damp proof course.
5. Find a good damp specialist
If the DIY tricks outlined above do not work to remove the damp problem, it is always best to consult a good, trustworthy damp proofing specialist. Ring Newtons on 020 7237 1217 and we will be happy to give you a list of damp proof specialists who cover your area free of charge. Newtons Registered Installers are trained to offer you the best level of service and expertise, and always offer a reliable solution for your damp problem.
This entry was posted in Damp Proofing Articles • June 20th, 2011 • Back To Top
Victorian brick built house, plaster board on inside of an external wall showing patches of damp i.e. bubbling, flaking paint, suggest possible causes, and solutions please.
Hi, thanks very much for your enquiry. The damp could be caused by a few different scenarios:
=> If it is an isolated area of damp especially at high level it may be due to defective rainwater goods such as a leaking gutter.
=> If it is consistent throughout the elevation of your property check to see if there is any soil bridging the damp proof course.
=> If not it could be just rising or penetrating damp.
In any case a quick fix solution would be to use our product Newtonite 803 which is a 3mm dimpled membrane which you can then dot and dab plasterboard or wet render onto . This allows the wall to breathe and for your to be able to get a new finish which is isolated from the dampness meaning no more blistering or salting . For further information please have a look at the damp proofing area of our website or call our head office on 0207 237 1217. You might also like to download our free Guide To Treating Damp Walls
Hi,
I am in the process of buying a terrace house and the survey report came with a dampness reading on the kitchen floor. Some damp inspection was then done, and the report says “it was noted that penetrating dampness was affecting the kutchen and the first floor airing cupboard. The defect appears to be due to plumbing defects.”
What does that mean and what do we do next. Is it ok to buy that house or will it end up in alot of expenses?
Please help.
Thanks
N J
Hi and thank you very much for contacting Newton
If you first floor damp issues are isolated to a particular zone then yes more than likely it will be defective rainwater goods or plumbing which is quite simple to fix and unless its been occurring for years will probably give you no further trouble if fixed. Keep a look out for any imbedded timbers that may have come into contact with dampness as this may lead to problems like dry rot etc. Have you had a timber survey?
In relation to the floor area was dampness picked up in an isolated area? If not it could be a rising damp problem? I think to give you the best advice that you contact us and ask for our technical department to talk through your project in more detail 0207237 1217
You might also find our Free Guide To Treating Damp Walls useful
Many thanks
Warren Muschialli
Thank you for your prompt response.
There has been a survey carried out which suggested there was a leak in the airing cupboard. Since the survey, they repaired the leak. A damp-proofing and dry rot specialist then went to take damp readings and on their report stated there was penetrating damp. They couldnt inspect all the timbers due to limited access.
The estate agent is saying the penetrating damp was a result of the leak, and because it has just been repaired last week, it would not have dried out properly and would take a while for the timbers to dry out and that there is nothing to worry about.
The dampness in the kitchen floor was thought to be sweating slabs? Its a concrete floor.
Is there any other signs I could look out for, when I visit the property next?
Thank you,
N J
Hi N J
Can you see lime scale build up on the external face of the walls where the airing cupboard is? If so the leak may very well be the only form of penetrating damp. In that case you should be fine. Penetrating damp usually is uniform if it is a massive problem which you should be able to evidence by internal finishes being spoilt across the offending elevation. Not a bad idea when you go there next time to have a look at the flashings especially around the chimney as this a bad area for penetrating damp. Also check rain goods externally and drains to see if they are blocked.
Sweating slabs? Could be there is little ventilation check this next time and ask the question what provision they have for ventilation in the kitchen area. As you know this is vital especially in kitchens and in laundries
Hope this helps.
hi, hope you can help me. i have a 1970 semi with corner extension. the extension concrete floor appears to have been laid at or above the house dampcoarse.allthough we have lived here 28yr we now appear to have damp coming outwards on floor from the house wall. there is some black spores. carnt find any leak or other problem. if the membrane is still in good condion would a channel 2inch wide filled with your epoxy resion help the problem. it does dry out when i take up the rino floor covering. thank you derek.
Hi Derek thanks for contacting John Newton and Company. Having internal floor levels at dpc level on the extension as you have rightly pointed out is not ideal. However to have your property with no problems for 28 years and then to discover a damp problem is unusual. The obvious question to ask is has there been any external works which have breached or changed the underlying ground conditions locally to the problem? Have you changed the floor finish to make it non breathable? Black spot mould is the manifest of lack of air movement a condensation control issue coupled with the dampness being trapped. Has the ventilation provision in affected area changed? i.e. do you have new windows etc which may make the structure have better insulative qualities?
I don’t think the epoxy trench is the best option. Firstly I would try to improve the air movement in the space and monitor the damp situation.
If this continues you could take one of two approaches.
1. After cleaning the area form all mould etc apply 2 coats of Newton 902 which will form a complete vapour barrier to the floor area. This is not my chosen approach as it could push dampness where you do not treat but it would be a cheap and quick attempt for you to solve the problem.
The most effective approach would be treat the floor with 601 slimline or 603 3mm dimpled sheet membrane but this would need to cover the entire area and be returned up the walls above dpc level. This would removing all floor finishes , laying the membrane then placing a layer of moisture resistant t and g flooring on top of the membrane then your floor finish.
Please feel free to call our technical department on 020 7237 1217 for more information
Best Wishes
John Newton Technical
Hi, The party wall in the hallway of my 1880′s terraced house is showing signs of damp.When I moved in 27 years ago I had a damp course treatment(injection)undertaken which came with a 25 year warranty. Part of this treatment involved replacing the plaster to a height of a meter from the floor up.The current signs of damp are above this replaced plaster. I’m guessing that whatever treatment was carried out has passed it’s usefulness.
Can you advise what my course of action should be to remedy this please.
Hello thanks for posting your questions on our site. A couple of questions.;
Is the evidence of damp manifesting itself in isolated sections or is it in a continuous line above where the original damp proof render was applied? If there are problems with the damp proof course and it for some reason has broken down then the salt inhibitor in the plaster will push dampness up above the line of waterproofing render applied.
The hardened sand and cement render used by the damp company will be very difficult to get off. It may actually do some damage to the building fabric in doing so. Without seeing it it’s hard to tell but I would leave the render on and apply Newton 803 Newtonite (3mm dimpled sheeting with mesh) to the wall and dott and dab a plasterboard and skim. This will deal with the problem for good.
Feel free to call us with any further details, and you can also download our Newton Damp Proofing Brochure.
Kind Regards
Newton Technical Division (London)
0207237 1217
Hello, the main bedroom in our Victorian terraced has developed damp patches in both top corners of the street-facing walls, one is a faint damp stain with a line of mould along the bottom of the coving, the other has pronounced drip marks and significant black mould now. One roofer said the membrane was rotted along the bottom and needed replaced, another said he didn’t see anything wrong, just paint the damp patches with sealant and see what happens. Any suggestions?
Hi Pauline
Many thanks for your comment. From the description this seems the classic signs of condensation, unless the walls in question are retaining. Perhaps you could call me on 020 7237 1217 to discuss. Our membrane systems will deal with all forms of dampness in the structure permanently but the black spot mould issue is an indication that there is inadequate ventilation and this alone could be cured with a mechanical heat exchange system. We are a manufacturer and could recommend to you a contracting business that could diagnose and treat the problem.
Regards
Warren Muschialli
Hi there,
We have purchased a 4-bed semi 1960′s property that had a survey done on it with no problems. The winter has gone by and now we are looking at water stains (trickle marks)all round the edges of our bedrooms on first floor. This occurs in 3 out of 4 bedrooms, covering three sides of property. The loft is well insulated and we are due to have it topped up too 8 inches. We are getting the cavity walls insulated in a few months, will this solve the water stains? Not sure if this is relevant, but we have aluminium double glazing also.
Please advise as not sure what next step to take.
Thank you
Paul
Thank you for your enquiry,
The water droplets that you are experiencing sound indicative of a condensation problem. Firstly let me explain what causes condensation. Condensation is a bi-product of how we live and the affect this has on the atmospheric moisture levels where we live. Because of the things that we do on a daily basis like showering ,bathing , cooking, washing, drying, use of butane gas fires and even breathing most homes suffer from a degree of condensation because these things will increase atmospheric moisture levels. This is fine until the atmospheric moisture levels rise to the point where the molecules of the air become saturated with water. When this happens they can no longer hold the water and this is called ‘Dew Point’. When Dew Point occurs the air molecules will seek to shed water on to the surrounding surfaces. Two things will affect Dew Point and that is the amount of atmospheric moisture that is produced in an area and temperature of that area. The more atmospheric moisture we create the more chance we have of the air molecules reaching their capacity for holding water and their capacity is determined by the temperature . Whilst the air temperature is high air molecules are relatively large which means that they can hold more water but if the temperature drops then the size of the air molecules decreases which means they can hold less and have to deposit the excess water somewhere. This is what results in the surface water and/or mould.
We know that condensation causes unsightly damp mould, affects internal finishes and in some cases has been known to be a health hazard so by understanding the above we can try to figure out a solution to the cause of the problem. As a guideline I would suggest the following measures are considered and applied as necessary:-
• Increased ventilation :- This can be done naturally or via mechanical ventilation or climate control systems. The more air changes that occur within an area the less likely that atmospheric moisture levels will get too high.
• Temperature :- Where ever possible try to create a constant even if only moderate temperature in the area.
• Treat the walls :- Once you have dealt with the key climate control issues it will be important to treat the affected area. The spores of the associated black spot penicillium mould can manifest themselves in the wall finishes and bleed through normal decorative finishes. This is unsightly, can be odorous and in some circumstances can be a health hazard. To be sure use that the mould is eliminated some decorating may be necessary which should include the application of a sterilising solution and antimould additive for the paint. You may want to use a kit like the one in the information attached.
In any case as with all damp problems the correct diagnosis is crucial when specifying the treatment. To this end the best advice that I could give at this point is to arrange for a Specialist Damp Proofing company to survey your property and advise you on the best course of action and products to rectify the problem. John Newton and Co. work closely with a number of such companies and can supply you with the contact details for one or more companies in your local area. They are approved installers of a number of waterproofing products an as such will ,without bias, put forward a design and associated costs using the system or systems which they feel will be the most suitable trouble free and effective in the given circumstances. The inspection will often be free of charge but if any fee is levied it will be refunded if they undertake the work.
I hope that this information helps and if you would like me to recommend or send a list of your local Newton approved contractors please fill out our online form: Request Registered Installers or call the office on 020 7237 1217 for any further advice
Toby Champion
National Sales Manager